For centuries, true Florentines have fought the summer heat with one unbeatable weapon: sarcasm. When the temperature rises and the temptation to envy those living up in the hills of Fiesole becomes irresistible, the streets of the historic center and the area around Piazza del Mercato Centrale echo with a genuine linguistic survival guide.

So, if you’re strolling through Florence and happen to hear any of these expressions, you’ll know it’s one of those scorching, muggy days. Don’t worry, here’s your translation:

“Oggi l’è abbollore!”

Literally: Today is “at boiling point”!
When the air above the city’s sandstone pavements shimmers as if it’s boiling, it’s no longer just hot. It’s bollore, the ultimate stage of summer heat, when you feel as though you’re boiling like a pot of water just before the pasta goes in.

“L’è un caldo che si schianta!”

Literally: It’s a heat that knocks you flat!
The Tuscan verb ‘schiantare’ means to burst, collapse or give way. This expression is used when the heat pushes you beyond the limits of human endurance. In other words, it’s so hot you’re melting… dramatically.

“Fa un’afa che s’affoga!”

Literally: The humidity is enough to drown in!
When the moisture rising from the Arno River makes itself felt, the air becomes so thick it feels as though you have to swim your way through it. Every breath takes a little more effort than the last.

“Quello s’è preso una caldata…”

Literally: He got hit by the heat…
This is the instant diagnosis for anyone who has wandered around Florence’s piazzas at midday and ended up looking lobster-red, dazed, and desperately searching for a patch of shade.

Florence lies in a beautiful basin surrounded by rolling hills. In summer, however, this picturesque setting turns into a natural heat trap. The stones of its historic buildings absorb the sun’s warmth all day long, while the blazing sun offers little relief.

And at the Table? Staying Cool at Zà Zà

So how do Florentines survive all this heat?

The instinctive answer on an abbollore day is immediate: “Tonight I’d only eat prosciutto and popone!” In Florence, popone is the local word for cantaloupe melon. And afterwards, many crave slices of cocomero, which locals would never dream of calling anguria, the more common Italian term for watermelon. Fortunately, summer dining can offer much more than these timeless classics.

At Trattoria Zà Zà, in Piazza del Mercato Centrale, the traditional pairing of Prosciutto Crudo and chilled melon is, of course, always on the menu. But when temperatures soar, the restaurant also offers lighter dishes that don’t compromise on flavour.

For meat lovers, hand-cut beef tartare, from the classic recipe to fresh truffle versions and other creative variations, makes a refreshing yet satisfying choice. Seasonal salads are equally generous, colourful and perfect for hot summer days.

The secret to escaping Florence’s famous summer “heat trap” is simply finding the right place. During the hottest hours, step inside Zà Zà’s air-conditioned dining rooms, sip a perfectly chilled glass of white wine, a flute of sparkling wine or one of the house Spritz cocktails, such as the Peach or Blackberry Spritz, and let the oppressive humidity melt away.

Then, as the sun finally sets, Florence begins to breathe again. The city’s natural basin cools, outdoor tables fill the beautifully illuminated square, a gentle evening breeze returns, and the Florentine summer once again becomes pure magic.